In the heart of the Corn Belt, where pork tenderloins and steakhouses typically reign supreme, Bruce Gerleman has achieved the improbable: maintaining a thriving, high-end seafood restaurant for nearly three decades.
Justin Brady of IowaPodcast.com recently interviewed Jessica Dunker of The Iowa Restaurant Association and Gerleman. He revealed the operational mechanics and unwavering standards that have kept Splash—and his broader portfolio, including the famous Jethro’s BBQ—viable in an industry facing an existential squeeze.
From Historic Preservation to Culinary Innovation
As the owner of Splash Seafood Bar & Grill in Des Moines, Gerleman is not merely a restaurateur; he is a veteran developer who applies the structural rigor of real estate to the volatile world of hospitality.
Before he was flying in tuna from Honolulu, Gerleman was grounding himself in Iowa’s architectural history. His background as a real estate developer involved the complex restoration of historic buildings, a career that demanded vision, precision, and an ability to navigate strict regulations. This “developer’s mindset” is evident in how he constructs his restaurant concepts—not just as places to eat, but as durable assets built on solid math and distinct market niches.
In 1998, inspired by fishing expeditions in the Florida Keys, Gerleman opened Splash Seafood with a singular, ambitious goal: to bring the “best of the Islands” to a landlocked state. Twenty-seven years later, Splash stands as a testament to that vision, boasting nine large saltwater aquariums and whimsical murals that transport diners far from the Midwest winter.
The Splash Standard: Logistics as a Luxury
Splash Seafood’s longevity—celebrating its 27th year—is built on a logistical high-wire act that few competitors would dare attempt. The restaurant’s defining value proposition is freshness, a promise kept by flying in seafood daily from ports in Hawaii, Anchorage, Seattle, and Boston.
Gerleman describes the process with the detail of a supply chain manager. Federal Express shipments are capped at 75 pounds, meaning a typical delivery is a carefully calculated mix: “37 pounds of tuna and 38 pounds of ice”. This commitment to “jet fresh” inventory is costly and complex, but it creates a defensive moat around his business. As Gerleman notes, “I don’t think there are gonna be too many more fresh seafood restaurants” attempting this model, simply because it is “not for the faint of heart”.
The “Math” of Survival in 2026
While the ambiance at Splash is one of effortless elegance—recognized by Wine Spectator awards for over two decades—the back-of-house operation is a study in cold efficiency. Gerleman is blunt about the current economic climate: “Restaurants… It’s about math. When the math doesn’t work… You gotta make the math work”.
Facing rising costs and shrinking margins, Gerleman has implemented rigorous “portion control” and “expectation control” measures. To-go boxes are now custom-sized to prevent overfilling, ensuring that the kitchen’s generosity doesn’t eat into profits. Furthermore, he leverages his capital to make strategic bulk purchases—such as buying 6,000 pounds of chicken during a supplier dip—to lock in lower prices.
Looking ahead, Gerleman is betting on technology to preserve the bottom line. He plans to roll out handheld point-of-sale systems across his operations, a move designed to increase efficiency and allow the restaurant to run with fewer servers and managers without sacrificing service quality.
A Warning on the “Third-Party” Threat
Despite his adaptations, Gerleman remains wary of the “third-party delivery” boom. For an experiential brand like Splash, delivery apps like DoorDash and Uber Eats represent a dilution of the product. “When [a] bag go[es] out the door,” he laments, the restaurant loses its ability to ensure quality, temperature, and presentation.
More critically, these services strip away the high-margin sales that keep fine dining afloat. “They’re not buying an extra beer. They’re not buying an extra glass of wine,” Gerleman points out, noting that alcohol sales are down roughly 20% industry-wide. To combat this, he has introduced “in-house only” specials to lure patrons back into the dining room, where the full “Splash experience” can be monetized and enjoyed as intended.
The Verdict
Bruce Gerleman’s tenure at the top of Des Moines’ dining scene is no accident. It is the result of a “nose to the grindstone” work ethic and a willingness to treat passion projects with the scrutiny of a P&L sheet. As the industry braces for a turbulent 2026, Gerleman’s advice to his peers is simple yet exacting: “Get active, look at the data… be very flexible and… respond quickly”. For Splash, the formula remains the same as it was in 1998: impeccable logistics, distinctive atmosphere, and an unyielding focus on the numbers.
Bruce Gerleman 